攀登帝国VS探险王朝

由于种种原因,2007-2008年度的金冰镐奖宣告暂停,消息来自于组委会Montagnes杂志. 

被誉为“攀登界奥斯卡奖”的金冰镐奖突然叫停，个中原委道来多少耐人寻味，充满了戏剧性。在经历了16个年头后，金冰镐奖走到了一个十字路口，现代登山运动的发展趋势要求它改变模式，是学习奥斯卡金像奖细分评选类别，还是像奥运会制定严密祥实的游戏规则，恐怕并不是猛药救市这样简单的事情。

我们已经连续三年报道金冰镐奖评选活动，通过这一报道与众多世界级的登山家和攀登者建立了紧密的联系。金冰镐奖的突然叫停，并不会影响我们对年度攀登动向的观察和思考，我们依然根据领先、独创性和价值的原则，选择出了一个我们眼中的年度最佳攀登名单。

对于那些追求真正的攀登精神的人们来说，评选和获奖都是次要的，攀登本身才是最重要的。我们的年度最佳攀登的主人公们都是世界级的登山家和攀登者，他们在文字和照片中表达了对攀登精神、自然环境和社会生活的体验和理解。从这一意义来说，金冰镐奖并没有远去，它的往日告白和宣言已深入人心。

此前我收到的初选名单有20个攀登活动入围,其中包括我认定的5个重要攀登. 

Ascent to the Jannu (7710)by Valeri Babanov and Sergey Kofanov. New via by the edge the Northwest.3000 WI4+.M5, in alpine style.

Ascent to the Jannu by Jordi Tosas. New via in the Wall of the Shades and connection with the 1976 Japanese route to 6900.1900, ED, in solitaire.

New route to the Adela Hill, by its face This, made by Alvaro Novellón, Oscar Perez, Dani Ascaso and Santi Padrós. 1000, WI6. M5+, in 15 hours.

New via a the Hill Level 2000, Elio Orlandi, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Rolando Larcher.700 7b max, 7a obli. A3.Style capsule.

Passage Standhart Hill, Herron End, Egger Tower by Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami, Mirko Mase and Fabio Salvadei.

Ascent to the Puscanturpa (5410), first route by its South face, of Pavle Kozjek and Grega Kresal. 6b+. WI3. 700.

First ascent of the expensive West of the Small Siula，Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró. Seven days in alpine style (900, ED，VI/A1, 5+R M A2).

During that expedition also they opened two new routes in alpine style in the Huascarán (1200,M5, A1 Md sup, 3 vivacs) and in the Snow-covered Glass (800, V/6, ED).

Variant to the Cassin,8c,in the Ovest Top. Opening of Alexander Huber.

First absolute ascent of the Pumari Chhish (7350), South face Christian Trommsdorff and Yannick Graziani. 2700,M5.A1,in alpine style.

First of the North face of Gasherbrum II (8035), by Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi and Michele Compagnoni.3000.

Life is lilac in the Northeast pillar of Shipton Spire,Silvia Vidal (870,A4+).

First ascent of the West of K7 (6860), Vince Anderson, Marko Prezelj and Steve House. 2.000 m.s WI5, 6c, in alpine style.

Directísima by the expensive West to the K2 (8611), by a Russian expedition of 16 members. First of the slope, with oxygen.

Ascent in October to the K2 (8611) by the North edge, Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov, in alpine style.

Ascent to the Manamcho (6264) Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden.The first of the mountain by the edge Northwest.800，M4,in alpine style.

First of the North face of the Arwa Tower (6350), Denis Burdet, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist. 1000, V+, M5, A3.

Japanese expedition to the Lhotse (8516) Group leader: Osamu Tanabe. Winter to the South face, the 12 of November.

First winter one to Monte Huntington in Alaska, by the expensive West, of Colin Haley and Jed Brown.

Ascent in solitaire of the edge This of the Annapurna, in alpine style, of Tomaz Humar.